2023 Chablis 'Envers de Valmur', Domaine des Malandes

Given Chablis' delicate style, there's a surprising level of colour intensity in the glass although pale by Burgundian standards but perhaps attributable to the warmth of the 2023 vintage. In the glass, a gentle swirl releases delicate aromas of melon skin, citrus, and grapefruit, along with an almost saline waft of the ocean.

On the palate, its impeccable; delicate and fresh with citrus and grapefruit initially leading, gently evolving into a 'slatey' mineral character, with a subtle, almost saline quality to the dryness that truly lingers on the palate. Following is a freshening streak of citrus, countered by an almost mild, creamy quality with a touch of tart pineapple as well and subtle warmth from oak interaction.

The subtle creaminess and warmth is where the real artistry in the winery has taken place, and the result of very judicious use of old oak barrels for fermentation. Used cleverly to add a little texture and body to the wine, while never impeding the delicate, mineral character that Chablis lovers crave.

The winemaking team at Domaine des Malandes blew us away with the 2022 vintage, this latest release is another absolute treat.

James Russell-Grant | Mr.Wheeler September 2025