1981 Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé Margaux (Case 2)
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Straight out of the bottle this was a little restrained and tertiary at first, but after 15-20 minutes in the glass it absolutely explodes into life. A little like starting up a vintage sports car which has lain dormant in the garage for 40 years, once the dust is shaken off, and the engine is purring - the gears shift seamlessly, and its pedigree shines through.
Initially 'secondary' and earthy with notes of woodsmoke, black tea and polished leather, but gradually more and more layers of aroma and flavour evolve... at first, some of the classic exotic Margaux perfume creeps onto the nose - violets and a hint of mint and spiced vanilla. Then, as if by magic, the fruit appears - astonishing depth and intensity of cassis fruit, really quite remarkable given the age here - and still so very pure and fresh. After half an hour in the glass, this was absolutely singing, and was enjoyed immensely by our tasting panel. 1981 Bordeaux has generally been in the shadows of its phenomenal successor - 1982, but at its best - and this is probably the finest wine of the vintage - 1981 is a very good year indeed.
- Ben Godfrey, Head Wine Buyer